“It’s just made me dig deeper into the parts of myself that feel like the most tender, the most childlike, because what differentiates us as humans is our memories. I think of this as in music—like in an album where you have all these different references being mixed together. And then the composite is something that feels really original, a handwriting that feels unique to the house. But if you go inside the looks, it’s really like a treasure trove of personal references mixed with the past.” - Daniel Roseberry on his most recent collection and AI
It's Haute Couture week in Paris, a time when designers showcase their most whimsical and imaginative ideas, celebrating the creative explorations within the fashion industry. Schiaparelli, renowned for its avant-garde and imaginative surrealist style, kicked off the week in a spectacular manner. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry unveiled a wild west meets sci-fi fantasy scape, boldly presenting a collection that stays true to the core of Schiaparelli. His unique vision offers a glimpse into the whimsical inner workings of his mind, leaving many, myself included, speechless.
Featuring 32 looks in a neutral color scheme, Roseberry masterfully employed sharp geometry, diverse textures, bold silhouettes, and unexpected materials. The result was a cohesive, elegant, and emotionally stirring ensemble that flawlessly encapsulated the profound influence of art in high fashion.
A particularly buzz-worthy ensemble was Look 7, a mini dress crafted from recycled pieces of technology from the 'pre-iPhone' age. The dress featured circuit boards intricately interwoven with diamond chains, wires circling computer fans, and embellishments including computer keys, a calculator, a CD, and even a cell phone. This homage to the digital world beautifully showcased haute couture's commitment to artistry, a realm in which Schiaparelli consistently excels. Another show-stopping moment came with Look 6, where a model sported seemingly ordinary white cargo pants and a white tank top while carrying a large baby made of the same motherboard as the digital dress.
These technological tapestries were skillfully juxtaposed with western-leaning looks, featuring heavy use of tassels, buckles, bandana motifs, and textured leather. In Look 4, a pair of black pants stood out with western belt buckles adorning the sides. Look 17 seamlessly blended all these elements, showcasing a brown leather skirt and thigh-high boots, both adorned with belt buckles along the sides. The western bandana print textured the button-down top, with long tassels elegantly hanging off the sleeves. Looks 20 and 21 continued this theme, incorporating tassels and bandana patterns, this time on a black fabric canvas.
No haute couture collection is complete without a touch of glitz and glam, and Schiaparelli's showcase was no exception. The collection featured long gowns adorned with intricate beading and sequins, becoming staples of the runway. Some gowns embraced understated elegance with sleek silhouettes and intricate cutouts, while others boasted poofier skirts and sharp, angular extensions. The grand finale presented a stunning beaded gown, embellished with dangling pearls and a sleeve that extended gracefully up and behind the head
Overall, this collection, with its standout looks, was exquisitely composed and utterly dazzling. Judging by the uproarious applause and standing ovation, I know I’m not alone when I say Daniel Roseberry truly outdid himself in representing Schiaparelli. To witness such a profound love for one's craft and unabashed creative exploration in the realm of fashion is a treat and one of the reasons why Couture Week is so exciting to watch.
A collection perfectly tailored for a cowboy who strayed out to the heavens, the Schiaparelli Spring/Summer 2024 Haute Couture show was something otherworldly, proving once again why Daniel Roseberry has earned the illustrious recognition he deserves.
